Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves composing wave groups     

Yong-Sik Cho  Jae-Sang Jung   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(1):82-92

Numerical analyses for the Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves associated long waves due to sinusoidally varying seabeds are performed by using a set of coupled ordinary differential equations derived from the Boussinesq equations. The Boussinesq equations are firstly approximated with the Fourier decomposition. The coupled governing equations are then derived and used to simulate evolution of both short and long wave components. It is also found that wave groups are generated by two carrier waves with slightly different frequencies. The wave energy of the initial wave components is transferred to other harmonic components during propagation over a long distance. Evolution and reflection of both short and long waves were largely affected by nonlinearity.  相似文献   

海岸线长度与分维在不同比例尺地图上的变化研究     

朱晓华  王建  陈霞 《海洋科学进展》2001,19(4):71-75

结合国内外海岸线分形研究进展 ,以江苏省海岸线为例 ,系统地探讨了不同比例尺地图上海岸线长度与分维的变化及其规律。指出海岸线长度与地图比例尺之间存在有 lg L =algk b的基本关系 ;其次 ,对于同一条海岸线来说 ,使用量规法和网格法计算所得分维结果是不同的 ,使用量规法的计算结果大于使用网格法的计算结果 ;再者 ,在不同比例尺地图上 ,同一海岸线的分维是不同的 ,随着地图比例尺的逐渐变小 ,海岸线分维相应地逐渐变小 ,且在不同比例尺间使用量规法计算所得海岸线分维结果的差值大于使用网格法计算所得海岸线分维结果的差值  相似文献   

海南岛博鳌港沉积物的沿岸输送   总被引：19，自引：0，他引：19  

高建华  高抒  陈鹏  葛晨东  朱大奎 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》2002,22(2):41-48

分析了博港沿岸沉积牧粒度参数的沿岸变化，并应用沉积物粒径趋势分析模型（GSTA模型）对沉积物运动趋势进行了分析。GSTA模型结果表明，博鳌港沿岸的泥沙在横向上表现为：万泉河口以北岸段为由海向岸运动，近期处于淤积状态；万泉河口以南岸段即玉带滩大致以NNE走向到NE走向的转折点为界，北部主要是由岸向海运动，是侵蚀岸段，而南部则主要为由海向岸运动，有少量的淤积，博鳌港沿岸泥沙输送在纵向上表现为：万泉河口以北由南向北运动，万泉河口以南，北部是由北向南运动，南部是由南向北运动，其次还运用了经验公式对GSTA结果进行了验证，得到了通过万泉河口南部（玉带滩）3个断面的沿岸漂沙量，其沿岸漂沙方向主要为南北向，以上两种分析方法得出的结果和当地的许多地貌证据基本符合，而GSTA模型在玉带滩北部泥沙纵向输运方向与经验公式计算结果所表现出的一些差异，主要是由于研究时间尺度和所用的资料特征的差异性造成的。  相似文献   

真光层的颗粒动力学──Ⅵ.南海东北部海域上层水体颗粒动力学的示踪研究     

陈敏  黄奕普  陈飞舟  邱雨生  徐茂泉  姜德盛 《热带海洋学报》1997,(2)

利用234Th－238U不平衡研究南海东北部海域3个站位上层水体中的颗粒动力学性质，测定了水往中溶解态及颗粒态234Th的比活度，具体讨论各相中234Th／238U）AR（放射性活度比）比值的垂直分布情况及其与水化学要素间的关系。运用稿态箱式模型计算出各站位不同水层中溶解态234Th相对于清除至颗粒物的平均停留时间和颗粒态234Th相对于迁出作用的停留时间。由模型得出的参数表明3个站位的真光层具有两种不同的层化图像，这一情形与我们在南沙群岛海域得到的结果相一致。结合POC／PTh比值，估算出3个站位从真光层输出的颗粒有机碳（POC）通量分别为4.025.0和5．4mmolC·m－3－d-1。文中进一步讨论了234Th与POC两者停留时间的关系。  相似文献   

台风“灿鸿”对长江口外海域悬浮体分布的影响     

龙小志  王珍岩 《海洋与湖沼》2022,53(6):1322-1337

台风作为事件性的强动力因素,其对河口海域沉积环境的影响目前研究较少,开展典型台风事件对长江口外海域悬浮体分布的影响研究对于深入理解长江径流挟带陆源物质向东海陆架扩散机制等具有重要意义。利用2015年09号台风"灿鸿"过境前后长江口外海域现场调查数据,分析台风前后长江口外水体结构和悬浮体粒度分布变化,结合同期环境观测数据与开源数据,阐明台风对河口外海域悬浮体分布的影响机制。结果表明:长江口外海域悬浮体中细颗粒组分(≤ 128μm)主要为无机矿物颗粒,而粗颗粒组分(>128μm)主要是生源有机颗粒。生源有机粗颗粒主要分布于中上层水体,而无机细颗粒主要分布于底层水体,使得长江口外海域悬浮体平均粒径分布呈双层结构。台风前后悬浮体粒度分布变化反映了台风对长江口外海域物理和生物过程的双重影响,其中物理过程主要影响无机细颗粒分布变化,生物过程主要影响有机粗颗粒。台风期间强烈的偏北风使得长江冲淡水在口门外海域由东北输运转为往东输运,与长江冲淡水输运方向一致的表层无机细颗粒在台风后输运方向同样往东。另外,台风作用在河口区产生的下降流将12250-4站位底部再悬浮的泥质沉积物向东搬运至12300-4站,导致12300-4站底层悬浮体浓度增加、粒度变细。台风过境还造成长江口外海域初级生产力提高,而浮游植物生长对悬浮体中有机粗颗粒的形成有促进作用,使得口门外海域上层水体中有机粗颗粒体积浓度升高。长江口外海域由于台风过境导致悬浮体中无机细颗粒和生源有机颗粒含量均增加,使得其平均粒径整体变化不大。  相似文献   

Modified PIC Method for Sea Ice Dynamics   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

王瑞学  季顺迎SHEN Hung-tao 岳前进 《中国海洋工程》2005,19(3):457-468

The sea ice cover displays various dynamical characteristics such as breakup, rafting, and ridging under external forces. To model the ice dynamic process accurately, the effective numerical modeling method should be established. In this paper, a modified particle-in-cell （PIC） method for sea ice dynamics is developed coupling the finite difference （FD） method and smoothed particle hydrodynamics （SPH）. In this method, the ice cover is first discretized into a series of lagrangian ice particles which have their own sizes, thicknesses, concentrations and velocities. The ice thickness and concentration at Eulerian grid positions are obtained by interpolation with the Gaussian function from their surrounding ice particles. The momentum of ice cover is solved with FD approach to obtain the Eulerian cell velocity, which is used to estimate the ice particle velocity with the Gaussian function also. The thickness and concentration of ice particles are adjnsted with particle mass density and smooth length, which are adjusted with the redistribution of ice particles. With the above modified PIC method, numerical simulations for ice motion in an idealized rectangular basin and the ice dynamics in the Bohai Sea are carried out. These simulations show that this modified PIC method is applicable to sea ice dynamics simulation.  相似文献   

Estimation of Water Particle Velocities by Empirical Transfer Function     

Chiu Yung-Fang Kuo Yi-Yu Chief of Coastal Engineering Division 《中国海洋工程》1997,(4)

-In previous and this studies it appears that the linear and nonlinear wave theory can notaccurately and easily predict the water particle velocities.Therefore,different from the theoretical consider-ations,in this study we have attempted to determine the transfer function empirically.Laboratory experi-ments were performed under various wave conditions.The empirical formulas of the transfer function ofthe wave height,angular frequency and water particle velocity were obtained on the basis of these test databy dimensional analysis and regression analysis.In intermediate and deep water depth conditions,thetransfer function was only a function of a nondimensional parameter which is composed of the angular fre-quency,the depth of the velocity gauge under the still water level,water depth and the acceleration of grav-ity.Finally,the empirical formulas were compared with experimental data and observational data formpresent and Cavaleri's(1978)studies.The empirical formulas were found to be in sufficient correl  相似文献   

海坛岛风沙表层沉积物的粒度分布特征   总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5  

陈方  李祖光 《台湾海峡》1993,12(4):385-392

本文对海坛岛风沙表层沉积物的粒度分布特征进行研究。结果表明：海坛岛风沙沉积物主要是由海岸带基岩和第四纪松散堆积物及闽江南下沿岸流所携带的泥沙，在海洋动力作用下堆积于海滩上，而后在强劲的ＮＮＥ向向岸盛行风作用下，海滩沙向陆搬运堆积而成的。风成沙的主要粒级为中沙，平均粒径为１．７３Ф；分选较好，标准差的平均值为０．６８，偏差多近于对称，偏态平均值为－０．０２；峰态窄，峰态平均值为１．２１。其搬运方式单  相似文献   

Size-specific vertical distribution of Baltic cod (Gadus morhua L.) eggs in the Bornholm Basin in 1993 and 1994     

Wlodarczyk  Ewa; Horbowa  Katarzyna 《ICES Journal of Marine Science》1997,54(2):206-212

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Effects of Irregular Wave Groups on Pile Forces     

Yang Zhengji Zuo Qihua Senior Engineer  River  Harbour Department  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute  Nanjing Engineer  River  Harbour Department  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute  Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1991,(2)

The wave forces on 1, 2 and 4 vertical circular piles under the action of several wave trains of the same wave parameters, such as Hs,Tp and Mo, but different wave group factor GF are measured in the laboratory. After comparing these forces, it may be concluded that the mean and significant wave forces are almost of no difference for the wave trains with different GF. When GF is larger, the one-tenth of the wave froce extreme is slightly increased and the maximum wave force is much larger than the ones with smaller GF, to which attention must be paid in engineering practice.  相似文献